Copyright © Louise Bostock 2007-2013. Please give credit where credit is due.

Sunday, 28 February 2010

All Nature seems at work

Yesterday was another fine, sunny day, with 15°C in the garden as Maccagno's bells were ringing for lunchtime. More tidying, preparing. A little speculative planting (with fingers crossed and a quick prayer to Carmine's weather gods). More clearing up after last weekend's tree-cutting in Priest's Wood. Sledge-hammers ringing against wedges, two-metre trunks splitting like butter under M.'s now-expert blows.

And all around we find that Nature is doing the same thing. Making ready. Little spring flowers, shivering in the wind. Butterflies and bees darting in and out.

As Samuel Taylor Coleridge wrote :

"All Nature seems at work. Slugs leave their lair
The bees are stirring, birds are on the wing,
And Winter slumbering in the open air
Wears on his smiling face a dream of Spring."


Friday, 26 February 2010

Green boat

Five degrees at 8:30am. Starting rainy, sunshine later.


And in that sunshine-later, we found this green boat reflected in the waters of Cannobio's Porto Nuovo.

For more images from Carmine Superiore, Cannobio and beyond, visit The Carmine Superiore Picture Gallery.
For more Weekend Reflections, click here.

Thursday, 25 February 2010

Seven degrees at 8:30am, with patchy sunshine. We seem to be on the up and up, temperature wise...

Wednesday, 24 February 2010

Reported conversations No. 18 : the compliment's in the simile

Five degrees at 8:30am. Patchy sunshine.Today we spotted this year's first butterfly.

Recently, Mama was called to the kindergarten to bring home AJ, who had developed a raging fever. On the drive home, my red-cheeked sneezy-boy broke his sweaty silence with, "Sofia said I was as hot as a stove, and then Andrea said I was as hot as the sun...".

Ever eager to build a lesson in English on an everyday situation, Mama replied, "As hot as chilli peppers." AJ suggested, "As hot as summer", and Mama put in, "As hot as the jungle."

After a pause, and a sleepless-night-to-come cough, the hoarse little voice piped up again from the back of the car : "Hot as ...

... Mama!"

You gotta like the kid!



Monday, 22 February 2010

Adrift

Four degrees at 8:30am, and sunny by lunchtime.


In my world it sometimes seems as if this 1,000-year-old village is adrift on a sea of azure mist, water below, the mountains impossibly distant shadows beyond.

For more images of Carmine Superiore, Lago Maggiore and beyond, visit The Carmine Superiore Picture Gallery. For more beautiful pictures from around the world, visit My World!


Wonderful weekend

This particular week in Carmine Superiore has started damp and cold, with a sprinkling of snow on the hills of the Valle Cannobina. Two degrees at 8:30 am as we rolled into a Cannobio whose streets were littered with distinctly soggy carnival confetti. And this, after we clocked 17°C in the garden at the weekend.

It was a stupendous weekend. Blowy, but sunny. We took off our jackets and made for the garden, where we pruned roses, planted sunflowers and clematis, and generally tidied up. We were accompanied by the roar of chainsaws in the woods; the sound of warmth-in-winter, the sound of log fires in the making, the sound of long, hot, relaxing baths. We ate lunch al fresco not once but twice, and we found ourselves telling a wave of Sunday visitors how lucky we are to live here. It's good to remind ourselves of that fact.

Sunday, 21 February 2010

A Last Supper?


Fresco fragment. Chiesa di San Gottardo, Carmine Superiore.

This looks to my untrained eye to be part of a Last Supper, although its position almost immediately to the left of a lady chapel leaves one wondering where the other disciples would have been depicted.

Saturday, 20 February 2010

A sparkling late-winter day, with a blustery wind. The lake is host to one fearless yachtsman and one intrepid windsurfer.

Friday, 19 February 2010

The pros and cons of having a chickin in the kitchin...

Grey and raining. Visibility reduced to the nearest tree. Warmer, though.

The big white chuck with the bad leg is once again roaming about the Carmine Animal Hospital, having been brought once more from the chicken coop for her own protection. I've said before how much worse bullies hens are than English grammar-school girls, have I? I thought so.

I'm in two minds whether it's a good thing. So, as I often do when I'm in two minds, I've written a list of pros and cons, for and against having a chickin in the kitchin...

Pro : gives us something to talk about when dinner conversation flags.
Con : the pile of doo-doo on the flagstones.

Pro : gives the children something interesting to show their friends.
Con : the little something interesting on the doorstep.

Pro : gives the cats something terrifying-yet-fascinating to be curious about.
Con : the excited 'I'm-about-to-peck-that-cat' splat on the welcome doormat.

Pro : gives the children something with which to surprise an unsuspecting houseguest.
Con : the greeny-brown pancake on the bottom of the houseguest's slippers.

Pro : gives us a tongue-twister to try out on our Italian friends (chickeninthekitchenchickeninthekitchen - you try it!).
Con : the egg on the...wait a minute...egg?...

Oh! Clothilde, you clever girl!

Thursday, 18 February 2010

"Vale" to the "carne"

Cloudy and cold, but at least it's not going to rain on our parade.

Parade? But all the parades finished before Ash Wednesday! I said parade and that's what I mean, for we are Ambrosiani, and that means we party on till Sunday.

Today is children's day at Carnevale, and for an idea of what might be coming our way, click here.

So if you see a silver spaceman and a Disney princess wandering along the old woodland path later today, you'll know it wasn't the barbera...

Wednesday, 17 February 2010

Four degrees at 8:30am and raining. And there's a chicken freaking out the kittens in the pantry (again).

Tuesday, 16 February 2010

Un-deniably un-expected

Two degrees at 8:30am. Foggy with a few rain drops here and there.

After the annual Christmas frenzy is over, being in the foothills of the Alps, many people's thoughts turn to winter sports. Ski bunnies all over town pull out their finest ski-togs and prepare for the big downhill. "Are you skiing?", they ask. "No," I reply. Mama doesn't ski. "Oh come on, it's fun!" "No, thank-you," I reply, firmly. Mama doesn't ski. In fact, Mama is allergic to snow, to the cold, to skis, ski boots, salapettes, snow ploughs and chair lifts.

And dirty Turkish toilets.

In fact the only thing I can think of to like about skiing is the après. Preferably somewhere there isn't any snow.

Why? I'll tell you.


Some (gasp) 30 years ago, the handsome young man at the centre of my life took me one Christmas to stay with his family at Lac d'Annecy. As a mere snip of a girl with not much to say for herself, I spent the several days of our visit in a perpetual whirl of hesitation before the unknown - unknown foods, unknown table customs, unknown languages. Finally, it was decided that we should all go skiing. Not wishing to appear - what? - un-sophisticated, un-worldly, un-educated, I put an un-certain smile on my face and accepted the assortment of borrowed and rented equipment I was offered. Once at the piste, my boyfriend taught me a snow plough, and pointed me in the direction of the drag lift up to the nursery slope, while he headed nimbly for higher ground. Without looking back.
Well, at the top of the drag lift, I predictably fell off, and ended up under a pile of bodies, all swearing at me in French.



Gathering myself up with difficulty, I inched to the top of the slope and pointed my skis in what seemed to be the right direction, but instead of sailing down in graceful curves, I bumped down on my butt, and each time I found myself on the ground, I was assailed from all directions by 5-year-olds in helmets and go-faster goggles, coming at me at Warp Factor Eight. I spent the rest of the day attempting to look as if I was just taking a breather at the foot of the piste, all the time trying, and failing, to control my minds-of-their-own skis.


I never went near another ski slope, and I dined out on a vastly embellished version of my skiing disaster for years, but I never would have thought that, 30 years on, I would have a son of my own and that he would be a little snow-devil in go-faster goggles like the ones who cut me up so badly that day. Well I do and he is, thanks to Bernardinello and the other kind members of Sci Club Cannobio. They have devoted every Sunday since New Year to teaching him and many other children of the combined schools of Cannobio to hop neatly over prostrate and terrified teenage beginners on the nursery slopes of Piana di Vigezzo.

Thanks also to the Comune di Cannobio, who have again this year generously subsidised the classes to the tune of 30% (now there's a local authority that knows what to do with its CCTV budget!). And to M., who gallantly undertook the Valle Cannobina Rally every Sunday at dawn for eight weeks, and who finally persuaded me to come along, giving me a fantastic excuse to be up in the fresh air of the mountains in winter rather than doing the mountains of ironing at home!


PS
AJ, to my - what? - un-expected, un-ending, un-derstandable pleasure, won his age-group's end-of-course slalom competition by sailing down in graceful curves at Warp Factor Eight. Bravo campione!



Images taken at Piana di Vigezzo ski resort; highly recommended, particularly for families in search of snowy fun and a great atmosphere, whether they ski or not.



Monday, 15 February 2010

Tra monti e lago



My world exists in an enchanted space between the mountains and the lake, between snow and water, between the blue above and the blue below.


For more images of Lago Maggiore, visit The Carmine Superiore Picture Gallery. For more beautiful pictures from around the world, visit My World!



First signs

One degree above at 8:30am. An early promise of a day requiring sunglasses turned rapidly to a day requiring Prozac - overcast and damp.

But at least there are signs that spring (dare I say it?) is on the way. The spring flowers - yellow, blue and white - are out, some of the camellias have blossomed and there are buds on many of the trees. And this morning as we started our descent we were greeted by the first rappings of our resident woodpecker.

Sunday, 14 February 2010

Is that a heart amid the squiggle?



Amid all the squiggles of daily life,
With him dashing this way, you going that way,
Amid the noise and confusion made
by that beloved rabble you brought into the world,
There, at the centre, still lies a valentine's heart.


Inspired by a squiggle seen on a park bench in Ascona, Switzerland on Valentine's Eve.



Friday, 12 February 2010

Quote of the week No. 35 : A very special talent

Almost 7°C in the bathroom today. Beats four. Beats two. Whispy clouds, struggling sunshine, something of a breeze.

Hermann Hesse (1877-1962), German-born writer, poet and painter, who lived at the end of his life just down the road from here at Montagnola.

"Happiness is a how; not a what. A talent, not an object."



Wednesday, 10 February 2010

Carmine quotes No. 16 : Freud would be proud...

AJ, my five-year-old son, over breakfast :

"Mama, I had a lovely dream last night. I dreamt we got married!"

Sound a little Oedipal to you? Me too! Eek!

Anyone know where I can get a savings plan to pay for shrink bills during the teenage years? And I don't necessarily mean for my son.

Got to run, late this morning. Now, where did I put Electra's painting pinafore...?

PS Plus two degrees at 8:30am, foggy, damp, and with a shiver-making wind.




Monday, 8 February 2010

Frescoes, Chiesa di San Gottardo, Carmine Superiore

A tantalising one degree above freezing at 8:30am. Foggy with the occasional snow flake.



Carmine Superiore is home to the tiny Romanesque Chiesa di San Gottardo, which dates back to 1330. Inside and outside, this tiny gem of a church is covered with exquisite frescoes. Originally painted in the 15th century, they have recently been restored. Above is a section of the Life of San Bartolomeo - I love the tiny dancing devil in the background.

If you would like to see more, just hit the 'frescoes' tag at the bottom of this post, or visit The Carmine Superiore Picture Gallery.

For more beautiful images from around the world, visit My World!



Nine rules for living in a foreign country

Cold, clear and dry with blue skies.

I've been a permanent resident in Carmine Superiore for a number of years now. Long enough to not remember exactly when I signed on at the Ufficio Anagrafe and first held in my hand my very own Italian ID card. Long enough to consider myself an expat, even though I don't have the hoopla salary or the palatial living quarters that most proper expats have. I'm not on contract, I haven't been seconded, I don't want to keep the peace and I'm not on a mission. I just live here.

And now I think I've lived here long enough to have earned the right to offer some advice to those fresh off the boat. To list, without futher ado, some of what I see to be the do's and don'ts of expat life:

1. Don't think you can get away with English and a winning smile. Make an effort to learn the language, and even if you become fluent, always apologise for speaking so badly. If you think you might not be up to the language-learning bit, squeeze out several children and throw them into the local state school. That way you'll always have an interpreter to hand.

2. The first words you should learn in the language of your adoptive country are : "Please speak slowly. I don't speak very good French/Italian/Gujarati..." As your linguistic ability increases, this can be upgraded to : "You can tell I'm foreign because I'm wearing M&S easy-wear jeans and I just used the wrong tense. You could easily answer 'yes' or 'no' to my question, so why the hell do you insist on talking nineteen to the dozen with a lump of Turkish Delight in your mouth? Cavolo!" (If you're in Italy, one mention of cabbages, and you'll have them where you want them...)

3. Don't imagine you're making friends among the local population until you've been invited into their homes. Children's parties don't count. But key parties do.

4. Be nice, very nice, about the country you are living in. Sshhht! Not a word, not even a single criticism. Clamp that mouth shut! Gaffer tape works...But if you absolutely must, write a blog - an anonymous blog.

5. He's from your home country, but it's okay if you don't become bosom buddies. You may share a nationality, but it doesn't mean he'll necessarily share your love of collecting decorative handcuffs or carving eggshells.

6. When making appointments with bureaucrats, always ask what particular documents you need. Then take everything you can think of - resident's permits, birth certificates, passports, ID cards, 'O'-level certificates, receipts for shoe repairs, your granddad's 100th-birthday letter from HM. In triplicate. Short (and sharp) courses on 'How to Deal with Bureaucracy' are available at any Indian railway station, and in the holding cells attached to Nigerian customs.

7. Buy local. In particular, don't import white goods from your home country. It'll annoy the local supplier you ask to fix them when they go wrong. Either he 'can't get the parts' or he genuinely can't get the parts. Either way you'll be doing the washing up by hand.

8. Don't allow yourself to get nostalgic about the Motherland. It stank when you left. And it still stinks. Probably more.

9. And finally, don't believe what you read in expat handbooks. They're written by people like me.

Sunday, 7 February 2010

Friday, 5 February 2010

Delfina's greeting - a mystery

At 6am this morning it was dark, cold and snowing. In Carmine Superiore, every day is a big adventure...



Arrived recently from a collector in Rome : at first sight, evidence of a wonderful holiday in Cannobio, with, perhaps, an unforgettable visit to Carmine Superiore - in 1951.

The curious thing is that the card is addressed to a person staying at the Hotel Formentin (which still exists) in the spa town of Albano Terme (which also still exists, unsurprisingly), near Padua. Perhaps it is the addressee who is taking the holiday, and the writer who stayed at home. Could this card actually have been sent by a resident of Carmine? And could this resident still be around?

I'm off into the snow to find out...



Thursday, 4 February 2010

Jazmin in Mayfair

A full two degrees above zero this morning at 8:30am. Shame about the cotton-wool skies sagging above us. Now, my local sources are mouthing the word, neve...snow.

Anyone planning to be knocking around London's Mayfair in the next couple of weeks? If so, drop in to the Panter & Hall Gallery in Shepherd Market, where printmaker Jazmin Velasco is taking part in the new Impressions exhibition. And if you have a yen, why not buy something?



Jazmin is very versatile. Among many other things, Jazmin does...

...sitting room...

she does...

...bedroom...

...she does...


...kitchen (at least, my kitchen)...

...and she does...

...bathroom.

And, best of all, she does great cats...


And I promise, a small purchase won't break the bank...

Wednesday, 3 February 2010

Book Notes No 31 : The Penelopiad, Margaret Atwood

Minus one at 8:30am. Sunny as yesterday. Today, my local sources are now predicting "tempo bruto" for the end of the week, and we all know what that means - rain!

Anyone remember Odysseus? Yes, that's the chappie. Alias Ulysses. Son of Laertes, father of Telemachus. Husband of Penelope. Got married then immediately dashed off to swash a bit of buckle in the Trojan Wars (Helen, Paris, Troy...), invented the Trojan Horse. As I was saying, got married and then swanned off for ten years to the siege of Troy and then another ten years running around the Med. slaying giants and sleeping with goddesses - a veritable 'odyssey'.

So for 20 years, wifey stayed home and managed the kingdom and a rather volatile teenage son (many single mothers will know how tedious that is). Later, she was assailed by suitors (read fortune-hunters), and, with a mind just as inventive as Odysseus', kept them at bay with a now-famous now-you-see-it-now-you-don't shroud-weaving trick.

Not much is said about Penelope in Greek myth, and in fact, what is said is contradictory. In The Penelopiad, Margaret Atwood laughingly plugs the gap.

The story of Penelope's 20 years sans mari is told by Penelope herself from Hades, with the interjections of the Twelve Maid(en)s, whom Odysseus (or perhaps it was Telemachus) hanged on his return, in the form of a chorus inspired by the forms of Greek tragedy.

The book is short, entertaining, witty and very, very ascerbic. I particularly enjoyed Atwood's characterisation of Helen, who was Penelope's supernaturally beautiful cousin. I always had a sneaking suspicion she would have been ... not very nice.

And the doubts Atwood casts on the literal truth of the Odysseus myth. Did he really slay a Cyclops and lie nightly in the arms of a goddess? Or did he knock over a one-eyed landlord in a sailor's bar-brawl and shack up with the beautiful madam of a high-class brothel. For me, Atwood's version is infinitely more enjoyable than Homer's!

A thoroughly enjoyable and thought-provoking book from an author about whom there is nothing one can say except "wow" (every time). Oh yes, and congratulations to Canongate Books who have made this a beautiful object to handle as well as to read.


Tuesday, 2 February 2010

Snow days

Minus one at 8:30am. Bright sunshine melting the icicles dangling from the mountainsides along the lake road. Someone this morning in Cannobio's Bar Centrale predicted warmer days ahead. Vedremo...



It doesn't snow very often here, in this 1,000-year-old village-fortress, but when it does, we are enveloped in a shroud of snow-clouds, the outside world disappears, and only the muffled bells from distant towers reach through to touch us. Lago Maggiore, lying spread out below us, remains only in the imagination. We become our own world, and in these moments one can imagine these ancient granite houses, the narrow cobbled streets in centuries gone by, peopled with the ragged ghosts of snow-days past.

For more beautiful images from around the world, visit My World! For more images of Carmine Superiore, visit The Carmine Superiore Picture Gallery.



Monday, 1 February 2010

Monday, Monday

Barely five degrees in the bathroom this morning at 10am. Partly cloudy, partly windy. Dry.


Why are Monday mornings always so ... difficult? Why are we always late on a Monday, why have we always lost something on a Monday, forgotten something on a Monday? Why are Mondays so goddamn stressy, so goddamn chaotic?

Last Monday, on the other hand, was looking to be a good Monday. A 1950s housewife Monday. Mama pops out of bed early - time for a quiet cup of tea and a load of laundry before soothing the children awake with the musical wake-up function on the baby monitor. No wet beds (hooray!). No dripping noses. No semi-conscious tantrums. All items of clothing in the right place at the right time ... and clean. All ablutions equipment ditto. Breakfast double ditto. Oh aren't we doing well today! I'll be wriggling into one of those starched aprons with a big bow before ya know it!

So it's a serene perfect housewife Mama who kisses M. goodbye as he leaves for work. M. likes serenity.

A short while later, Mama and the children are ready to head down the hill, only ten minutes late (well, it takes a little longer if you want serene). Now where are the car keys? In the key-box where they should be? No. In my coat pocket? No. In my handbag? No. Mercury starting to rise, imaginary 1950s lipsticked smile starts to slip. Kids outside in the street start to quarrel.

In M.'s three jackets? No. In the trousers he wore yesterday when he took AJ skiing? No.

AJ pushes B. over on the Neolotihic rock carvings outside the front door. B shrieks, sending cats skittering away. Mama sticks head out of bathroom window and drops a couple of threats concerning favourite toys and the trash can.

On the bedside table? No. On the study desk? No. On the kitchen counter, shelf, mantelpiece. Mama grabs step-stool - are the keys anywhere that is above her head height? No.

The children have run off to the churchyard and are re-enacting a fight-scene featuring Robin Hood and Guy of Gisbourne - with large sticks. Mama sends up an elaborate prayer to the Virgin Mary to whisper in their ears dire warnings about sticks, eyes and hospitals.

Now on the phone, Mama's mercury has reached the red. She races around the house, looking in all the places M. suggests as he drives further and further away from the place he is needed most. No. No. They're not there! Think! No, no, NO! She reels off a string of non-too-dainty Old Norse and rings off, the mercury having blown the bulb.

Ten seconds later, the phone rings. "Erm, darling...they're in my pocket...". "Which pocket, tell me and we can go before the kindergarten closes its doors!" "My coat pocket. The coat I'm wearing. What I suggest is that you have a spare made and keep it in your purse..."

Having no more mercury to explode, Mama ignores the lecture and calls the children to come indoors. No kindergarten today...Her mind is still whirling - make a spare, make a spare...how dare he lecture me! Make a spare...!

Wait a minute, I already made a spare!

Mama grabs spare key, children, teddy bears, recycling and freshly laundered kindergarten kit and hits the long trail down. Fast. Much faster than usual. No complicated conversations. No singing songs. No picking fauna of any kind. No stopping to listen to birdsong, and God help the escort of cats if they get under our feet.

Breathless with nervous energy as she reaches the car, Mama stabs the spare key into the lock knowing that concealed inside is an ignition key. It doesn't fit. Mama whizzes round to the other side. It doesn't fit there either. Remember this is a 199-something Fiat Panda 900 Dance - no power steering, no cruise control, and definitely no central locking. The stress starts to rise again, and amid visions of the tedious walk back up the hill, Mama tries the hatchback.

Miraculously, it's already open!

Nothing for it! Without a moment's thought, Mama drops her burdens, climbs into the boot, over the mountain of childrens' clothing waiting to be dropped at the charity bins, over the ski equipment, over the children's seats, she squeezes between the two front seats, avoiding the gear stick, and opens the door from the inside. (Only later does she think it might have been more dignified - and perhaps fun - to send one of the children.)

Jubilation! Smiles all round! Everyone quickly bundled in - not long now before the kindergarten doors close (no latecomers allowed). Find the concealed ignition key and...

Putt-putt-whirr. Putt-putt-putt-whirrrr. We have NO liftoff! With the choke, without the choke, pumping the gas. In first, in neutral, in reverse (as if that made a difference, but it sure felt like it might).

Red-faced, hair mussy, coat and scarf awry. Mama sits back, beaten, defeated. It didn't take much calculation to realise she had missed the bus, and the various neighbours who would usually offer a lift had already left for their morning coffee. Her mind wanders to the chores of the day and how she would amuse the children while she did them...Not acceptable! Try again!

Strokes the dashboard. "Come on girl, do it for me. I'll change your oil...I'll sort out the rust on your bodywork...I'll get your damned wheel bearings changed!" Okay now. Choke out half way. Gently does it.

Vrooooooommmmm! And we drive like Jeremy Clarkson all the way to town.

Much later, Mama is busy with B.'s bedtime non-routine when AJ bursts through the bathroom door, beaming. In his arms he carries an elaborately decorated blue box and the car keys, and he's followed by a sheepish culprit.

It's a chocolate-coated apology, and everybody gets some. And Mama sits back on her heels and reflects that every cloud has a silver lining, but that she would like it even better if every cloud had a chocolate lining...


Sunday, 28 February 2010

All Nature seems at work

Yesterday was another fine, sunny day, with 15°C in the garden as Maccagno's bells were ringing for lunchtime. More tidying, preparing. A little speculative planting (with fingers crossed and a quick prayer to Carmine's weather gods). More clearing up after last weekend's tree-cutting in Priest's Wood. Sledge-hammers ringing against wedges, two-metre trunks splitting like butter under M.'s now-expert blows.

And all around we find that Nature is doing the same thing. Making ready. Little spring flowers, shivering in the wind. Butterflies and bees darting in and out.

As Samuel Taylor Coleridge wrote :

"All Nature seems at work. Slugs leave their lair
The bees are stirring, birds are on the wing,
And Winter slumbering in the open air
Wears on his smiling face a dream of Spring."


Friday, 26 February 2010

Green boat

Five degrees at 8:30am. Starting rainy, sunshine later.


And in that sunshine-later, we found this green boat reflected in the waters of Cannobio's Porto Nuovo.

For more images from Carmine Superiore, Cannobio and beyond, visit The Carmine Superiore Picture Gallery.
For more Weekend Reflections, click here.

Thursday, 25 February 2010

Seven degrees at 8:30am, with patchy sunshine. We seem to be on the up and up, temperature wise...

Wednesday, 24 February 2010

Reported conversations No. 18 : the compliment's in the simile

Five degrees at 8:30am. Patchy sunshine.Today we spotted this year's first butterfly.

Recently, Mama was called to the kindergarten to bring home AJ, who had developed a raging fever. On the drive home, my red-cheeked sneezy-boy broke his sweaty silence with, "Sofia said I was as hot as a stove, and then Andrea said I was as hot as the sun...".

Ever eager to build a lesson in English on an everyday situation, Mama replied, "As hot as chilli peppers." AJ suggested, "As hot as summer", and Mama put in, "As hot as the jungle."

After a pause, and a sleepless-night-to-come cough, the hoarse little voice piped up again from the back of the car : "Hot as ...

... Mama!"

You gotta like the kid!



Monday, 22 February 2010

Adrift

Four degrees at 8:30am, and sunny by lunchtime.


In my world it sometimes seems as if this 1,000-year-old village is adrift on a sea of azure mist, water below, the mountains impossibly distant shadows beyond.

For more images of Carmine Superiore, Lago Maggiore and beyond, visit The Carmine Superiore Picture Gallery. For more beautiful pictures from around the world, visit My World!


Wonderful weekend

This particular week in Carmine Superiore has started damp and cold, with a sprinkling of snow on the hills of the Valle Cannobina. Two degrees at 8:30 am as we rolled into a Cannobio whose streets were littered with distinctly soggy carnival confetti. And this, after we clocked 17°C in the garden at the weekend.

It was a stupendous weekend. Blowy, but sunny. We took off our jackets and made for the garden, where we pruned roses, planted sunflowers and clematis, and generally tidied up. We were accompanied by the roar of chainsaws in the woods; the sound of warmth-in-winter, the sound of log fires in the making, the sound of long, hot, relaxing baths. We ate lunch al fresco not once but twice, and we found ourselves telling a wave of Sunday visitors how lucky we are to live here. It's good to remind ourselves of that fact.

Sunday, 21 February 2010

A Last Supper?


Fresco fragment. Chiesa di San Gottardo, Carmine Superiore.

This looks to my untrained eye to be part of a Last Supper, although its position almost immediately to the left of a lady chapel leaves one wondering where the other disciples would have been depicted.

Saturday, 20 February 2010

A sparkling late-winter day, with a blustery wind. The lake is host to one fearless yachtsman and one intrepid windsurfer.

Friday, 19 February 2010

The pros and cons of having a chickin in the kitchin...

Grey and raining. Visibility reduced to the nearest tree. Warmer, though.

The big white chuck with the bad leg is once again roaming about the Carmine Animal Hospital, having been brought once more from the chicken coop for her own protection. I've said before how much worse bullies hens are than English grammar-school girls, have I? I thought so.

I'm in two minds whether it's a good thing. So, as I often do when I'm in two minds, I've written a list of pros and cons, for and against having a chickin in the kitchin...

Pro : gives us something to talk about when dinner conversation flags.
Con : the pile of doo-doo on the flagstones.

Pro : gives the children something interesting to show their friends.
Con : the little something interesting on the doorstep.

Pro : gives the cats something terrifying-yet-fascinating to be curious about.
Con : the excited 'I'm-about-to-peck-that-cat' splat on the welcome doormat.

Pro : gives the children something with which to surprise an unsuspecting houseguest.
Con : the greeny-brown pancake on the bottom of the houseguest's slippers.

Pro : gives us a tongue-twister to try out on our Italian friends (chickeninthekitchenchickeninthekitchen - you try it!).
Con : the egg on the...wait a minute...egg?...

Oh! Clothilde, you clever girl!

Thursday, 18 February 2010

"Vale" to the "carne"

Cloudy and cold, but at least it's not going to rain on our parade.

Parade? But all the parades finished before Ash Wednesday! I said parade and that's what I mean, for we are Ambrosiani, and that means we party on till Sunday.

Today is children's day at Carnevale, and for an idea of what might be coming our way, click here.

So if you see a silver spaceman and a Disney princess wandering along the old woodland path later today, you'll know it wasn't the barbera...

Wednesday, 17 February 2010

Four degrees at 8:30am and raining. And there's a chicken freaking out the kittens in the pantry (again).

Tuesday, 16 February 2010

Un-deniably un-expected

Two degrees at 8:30am. Foggy with a few rain drops here and there.

After the annual Christmas frenzy is over, being in the foothills of the Alps, many people's thoughts turn to winter sports. Ski bunnies all over town pull out their finest ski-togs and prepare for the big downhill. "Are you skiing?", they ask. "No," I reply. Mama doesn't ski. "Oh come on, it's fun!" "No, thank-you," I reply, firmly. Mama doesn't ski. In fact, Mama is allergic to snow, to the cold, to skis, ski boots, salapettes, snow ploughs and chair lifts.

And dirty Turkish toilets.

In fact the only thing I can think of to like about skiing is the après. Preferably somewhere there isn't any snow.

Why? I'll tell you.


Some (gasp) 30 years ago, the handsome young man at the centre of my life took me one Christmas to stay with his family at Lac d'Annecy. As a mere snip of a girl with not much to say for herself, I spent the several days of our visit in a perpetual whirl of hesitation before the unknown - unknown foods, unknown table customs, unknown languages. Finally, it was decided that we should all go skiing. Not wishing to appear - what? - un-sophisticated, un-worldly, un-educated, I put an un-certain smile on my face and accepted the assortment of borrowed and rented equipment I was offered. Once at the piste, my boyfriend taught me a snow plough, and pointed me in the direction of the drag lift up to the nursery slope, while he headed nimbly for higher ground. Without looking back.
Well, at the top of the drag lift, I predictably fell off, and ended up under a pile of bodies, all swearing at me in French.



Gathering myself up with difficulty, I inched to the top of the slope and pointed my skis in what seemed to be the right direction, but instead of sailing down in graceful curves, I bumped down on my butt, and each time I found myself on the ground, I was assailed from all directions by 5-year-olds in helmets and go-faster goggles, coming at me at Warp Factor Eight. I spent the rest of the day attempting to look as if I was just taking a breather at the foot of the piste, all the time trying, and failing, to control my minds-of-their-own skis.


I never went near another ski slope, and I dined out on a vastly embellished version of my skiing disaster for years, but I never would have thought that, 30 years on, I would have a son of my own and that he would be a little snow-devil in go-faster goggles like the ones who cut me up so badly that day. Well I do and he is, thanks to Bernardinello and the other kind members of Sci Club Cannobio. They have devoted every Sunday since New Year to teaching him and many other children of the combined schools of Cannobio to hop neatly over prostrate and terrified teenage beginners on the nursery slopes of Piana di Vigezzo.

Thanks also to the Comune di Cannobio, who have again this year generously subsidised the classes to the tune of 30% (now there's a local authority that knows what to do with its CCTV budget!). And to M., who gallantly undertook the Valle Cannobina Rally every Sunday at dawn for eight weeks, and who finally persuaded me to come along, giving me a fantastic excuse to be up in the fresh air of the mountains in winter rather than doing the mountains of ironing at home!


PS
AJ, to my - what? - un-expected, un-ending, un-derstandable pleasure, won his age-group's end-of-course slalom competition by sailing down in graceful curves at Warp Factor Eight. Bravo campione!



Images taken at Piana di Vigezzo ski resort; highly recommended, particularly for families in search of snowy fun and a great atmosphere, whether they ski or not.



Monday, 15 February 2010

Tra monti e lago



My world exists in an enchanted space between the mountains and the lake, between snow and water, between the blue above and the blue below.


For more images of Lago Maggiore, visit The Carmine Superiore Picture Gallery. For more beautiful pictures from around the world, visit My World!



First signs

One degree above at 8:30am. An early promise of a day requiring sunglasses turned rapidly to a day requiring Prozac - overcast and damp.

But at least there are signs that spring (dare I say it?) is on the way. The spring flowers - yellow, blue and white - are out, some of the camellias have blossomed and there are buds on many of the trees. And this morning as we started our descent we were greeted by the first rappings of our resident woodpecker.

Sunday, 14 February 2010

Is that a heart amid the squiggle?



Amid all the squiggles of daily life,
With him dashing this way, you going that way,
Amid the noise and confusion made
by that beloved rabble you brought into the world,
There, at the centre, still lies a valentine's heart.


Inspired by a squiggle seen on a park bench in Ascona, Switzerland on Valentine's Eve.



Friday, 12 February 2010

Quote of the week No. 35 : A very special talent

Almost 7°C in the bathroom today. Beats four. Beats two. Whispy clouds, struggling sunshine, something of a breeze.

Hermann Hesse (1877-1962), German-born writer, poet and painter, who lived at the end of his life just down the road from here at Montagnola.

"Happiness is a how; not a what. A talent, not an object."



Wednesday, 10 February 2010

Carmine quotes No. 16 : Freud would be proud...

AJ, my five-year-old son, over breakfast :

"Mama, I had a lovely dream last night. I dreamt we got married!"

Sound a little Oedipal to you? Me too! Eek!

Anyone know where I can get a savings plan to pay for shrink bills during the teenage years? And I don't necessarily mean for my son.

Got to run, late this morning. Now, where did I put Electra's painting pinafore...?

PS Plus two degrees at 8:30am, foggy, damp, and with a shiver-making wind.




Monday, 8 February 2010

Frescoes, Chiesa di San Gottardo, Carmine Superiore

A tantalising one degree above freezing at 8:30am. Foggy with the occasional snow flake.



Carmine Superiore is home to the tiny Romanesque Chiesa di San Gottardo, which dates back to 1330. Inside and outside, this tiny gem of a church is covered with exquisite frescoes. Originally painted in the 15th century, they have recently been restored. Above is a section of the Life of San Bartolomeo - I love the tiny dancing devil in the background.

If you would like to see more, just hit the 'frescoes' tag at the bottom of this post, or visit The Carmine Superiore Picture Gallery.

For more beautiful images from around the world, visit My World!



Nine rules for living in a foreign country

Cold, clear and dry with blue skies.

I've been a permanent resident in Carmine Superiore for a number of years now. Long enough to not remember exactly when I signed on at the Ufficio Anagrafe and first held in my hand my very own Italian ID card. Long enough to consider myself an expat, even though I don't have the hoopla salary or the palatial living quarters that most proper expats have. I'm not on contract, I haven't been seconded, I don't want to keep the peace and I'm not on a mission. I just live here.

And now I think I've lived here long enough to have earned the right to offer some advice to those fresh off the boat. To list, without futher ado, some of what I see to be the do's and don'ts of expat life:

1. Don't think you can get away with English and a winning smile. Make an effort to learn the language, and even if you become fluent, always apologise for speaking so badly. If you think you might not be up to the language-learning bit, squeeze out several children and throw them into the local state school. That way you'll always have an interpreter to hand.

2. The first words you should learn in the language of your adoptive country are : "Please speak slowly. I don't speak very good French/Italian/Gujarati..." As your linguistic ability increases, this can be upgraded to : "You can tell I'm foreign because I'm wearing M&S easy-wear jeans and I just used the wrong tense. You could easily answer 'yes' or 'no' to my question, so why the hell do you insist on talking nineteen to the dozen with a lump of Turkish Delight in your mouth? Cavolo!" (If you're in Italy, one mention of cabbages, and you'll have them where you want them...)

3. Don't imagine you're making friends among the local population until you've been invited into their homes. Children's parties don't count. But key parties do.

4. Be nice, very nice, about the country you are living in. Sshhht! Not a word, not even a single criticism. Clamp that mouth shut! Gaffer tape works...But if you absolutely must, write a blog - an anonymous blog.

5. He's from your home country, but it's okay if you don't become bosom buddies. You may share a nationality, but it doesn't mean he'll necessarily share your love of collecting decorative handcuffs or carving eggshells.

6. When making appointments with bureaucrats, always ask what particular documents you need. Then take everything you can think of - resident's permits, birth certificates, passports, ID cards, 'O'-level certificates, receipts for shoe repairs, your granddad's 100th-birthday letter from HM. In triplicate. Short (and sharp) courses on 'How to Deal with Bureaucracy' are available at any Indian railway station, and in the holding cells attached to Nigerian customs.

7. Buy local. In particular, don't import white goods from your home country. It'll annoy the local supplier you ask to fix them when they go wrong. Either he 'can't get the parts' or he genuinely can't get the parts. Either way you'll be doing the washing up by hand.

8. Don't allow yourself to get nostalgic about the Motherland. It stank when you left. And it still stinks. Probably more.

9. And finally, don't believe what you read in expat handbooks. They're written by people like me.

Sunday, 7 February 2010

Friday, 5 February 2010

Delfina's greeting - a mystery

At 6am this morning it was dark, cold and snowing. In Carmine Superiore, every day is a big adventure...



Arrived recently from a collector in Rome : at first sight, evidence of a wonderful holiday in Cannobio, with, perhaps, an unforgettable visit to Carmine Superiore - in 1951.

The curious thing is that the card is addressed to a person staying at the Hotel Formentin (which still exists) in the spa town of Albano Terme (which also still exists, unsurprisingly), near Padua. Perhaps it is the addressee who is taking the holiday, and the writer who stayed at home. Could this card actually have been sent by a resident of Carmine? And could this resident still be around?

I'm off into the snow to find out...



Thursday, 4 February 2010

Jazmin in Mayfair

A full two degrees above zero this morning at 8:30am. Shame about the cotton-wool skies sagging above us. Now, my local sources are mouthing the word, neve...snow.

Anyone planning to be knocking around London's Mayfair in the next couple of weeks? If so, drop in to the Panter & Hall Gallery in Shepherd Market, where printmaker Jazmin Velasco is taking part in the new Impressions exhibition. And if you have a yen, why not buy something?



Jazmin is very versatile. Among many other things, Jazmin does...

...sitting room...

she does...

...bedroom...

...she does...


...kitchen (at least, my kitchen)...

...and she does...

...bathroom.

And, best of all, she does great cats...


And I promise, a small purchase won't break the bank...

Wednesday, 3 February 2010

Book Notes No 31 : The Penelopiad, Margaret Atwood

Minus one at 8:30am. Sunny as yesterday. Today, my local sources are now predicting "tempo bruto" for the end of the week, and we all know what that means - rain!

Anyone remember Odysseus? Yes, that's the chappie. Alias Ulysses. Son of Laertes, father of Telemachus. Husband of Penelope. Got married then immediately dashed off to swash a bit of buckle in the Trojan Wars (Helen, Paris, Troy...), invented the Trojan Horse. As I was saying, got married and then swanned off for ten years to the siege of Troy and then another ten years running around the Med. slaying giants and sleeping with goddesses - a veritable 'odyssey'.

So for 20 years, wifey stayed home and managed the kingdom and a rather volatile teenage son (many single mothers will know how tedious that is). Later, she was assailed by suitors (read fortune-hunters), and, with a mind just as inventive as Odysseus', kept them at bay with a now-famous now-you-see-it-now-you-don't shroud-weaving trick.

Not much is said about Penelope in Greek myth, and in fact, what is said is contradictory. In The Penelopiad, Margaret Atwood laughingly plugs the gap.

The story of Penelope's 20 years sans mari is told by Penelope herself from Hades, with the interjections of the Twelve Maid(en)s, whom Odysseus (or perhaps it was Telemachus) hanged on his return, in the form of a chorus inspired by the forms of Greek tragedy.

The book is short, entertaining, witty and very, very ascerbic. I particularly enjoyed Atwood's characterisation of Helen, who was Penelope's supernaturally beautiful cousin. I always had a sneaking suspicion she would have been ... not very nice.

And the doubts Atwood casts on the literal truth of the Odysseus myth. Did he really slay a Cyclops and lie nightly in the arms of a goddess? Or did he knock over a one-eyed landlord in a sailor's bar-brawl and shack up with the beautiful madam of a high-class brothel. For me, Atwood's version is infinitely more enjoyable than Homer's!

A thoroughly enjoyable and thought-provoking book from an author about whom there is nothing one can say except "wow" (every time). Oh yes, and congratulations to Canongate Books who have made this a beautiful object to handle as well as to read.


Tuesday, 2 February 2010

Snow days

Minus one at 8:30am. Bright sunshine melting the icicles dangling from the mountainsides along the lake road. Someone this morning in Cannobio's Bar Centrale predicted warmer days ahead. Vedremo...



It doesn't snow very often here, in this 1,000-year-old village-fortress, but when it does, we are enveloped in a shroud of snow-clouds, the outside world disappears, and only the muffled bells from distant towers reach through to touch us. Lago Maggiore, lying spread out below us, remains only in the imagination. We become our own world, and in these moments one can imagine these ancient granite houses, the narrow cobbled streets in centuries gone by, peopled with the ragged ghosts of snow-days past.

For more beautiful images from around the world, visit My World! For more images of Carmine Superiore, visit The Carmine Superiore Picture Gallery.



Monday, 1 February 2010

Monday, Monday

Barely five degrees in the bathroom this morning at 10am. Partly cloudy, partly windy. Dry.


Why are Monday mornings always so ... difficult? Why are we always late on a Monday, why have we always lost something on a Monday, forgotten something on a Monday? Why are Mondays so goddamn stressy, so goddamn chaotic?

Last Monday, on the other hand, was looking to be a good Monday. A 1950s housewife Monday. Mama pops out of bed early - time for a quiet cup of tea and a load of laundry before soothing the children awake with the musical wake-up function on the baby monitor. No wet beds (hooray!). No dripping noses. No semi-conscious tantrums. All items of clothing in the right place at the right time ... and clean. All ablutions equipment ditto. Breakfast double ditto. Oh aren't we doing well today! I'll be wriggling into one of those starched aprons with a big bow before ya know it!

So it's a serene perfect housewife Mama who kisses M. goodbye as he leaves for work. M. likes serenity.

A short while later, Mama and the children are ready to head down the hill, only ten minutes late (well, it takes a little longer if you want serene). Now where are the car keys? In the key-box where they should be? No. In my coat pocket? No. In my handbag? No. Mercury starting to rise, imaginary 1950s lipsticked smile starts to slip. Kids outside in the street start to quarrel.

In M.'s three jackets? No. In the trousers he wore yesterday when he took AJ skiing? No.

AJ pushes B. over on the Neolotihic rock carvings outside the front door. B shrieks, sending cats skittering away. Mama sticks head out of bathroom window and drops a couple of threats concerning favourite toys and the trash can.

On the bedside table? No. On the study desk? No. On the kitchen counter, shelf, mantelpiece. Mama grabs step-stool - are the keys anywhere that is above her head height? No.

The children have run off to the churchyard and are re-enacting a fight-scene featuring Robin Hood and Guy of Gisbourne - with large sticks. Mama sends up an elaborate prayer to the Virgin Mary to whisper in their ears dire warnings about sticks, eyes and hospitals.

Now on the phone, Mama's mercury has reached the red. She races around the house, looking in all the places M. suggests as he drives further and further away from the place he is needed most. No. No. They're not there! Think! No, no, NO! She reels off a string of non-too-dainty Old Norse and rings off, the mercury having blown the bulb.

Ten seconds later, the phone rings. "Erm, darling...they're in my pocket...". "Which pocket, tell me and we can go before the kindergarten closes its doors!" "My coat pocket. The coat I'm wearing. What I suggest is that you have a spare made and keep it in your purse..."

Having no more mercury to explode, Mama ignores the lecture and calls the children to come indoors. No kindergarten today...Her mind is still whirling - make a spare, make a spare...how dare he lecture me! Make a spare...!

Wait a minute, I already made a spare!

Mama grabs spare key, children, teddy bears, recycling and freshly laundered kindergarten kit and hits the long trail down. Fast. Much faster than usual. No complicated conversations. No singing songs. No picking fauna of any kind. No stopping to listen to birdsong, and God help the escort of cats if they get under our feet.

Breathless with nervous energy as she reaches the car, Mama stabs the spare key into the lock knowing that concealed inside is an ignition key. It doesn't fit. Mama whizzes round to the other side. It doesn't fit there either. Remember this is a 199-something Fiat Panda 900 Dance - no power steering, no cruise control, and definitely no central locking. The stress starts to rise again, and amid visions of the tedious walk back up the hill, Mama tries the hatchback.

Miraculously, it's already open!

Nothing for it! Without a moment's thought, Mama drops her burdens, climbs into the boot, over the mountain of childrens' clothing waiting to be dropped at the charity bins, over the ski equipment, over the children's seats, she squeezes between the two front seats, avoiding the gear stick, and opens the door from the inside. (Only later does she think it might have been more dignified - and perhaps fun - to send one of the children.)

Jubilation! Smiles all round! Everyone quickly bundled in - not long now before the kindergarten doors close (no latecomers allowed). Find the concealed ignition key and...

Putt-putt-whirr. Putt-putt-putt-whirrrr. We have NO liftoff! With the choke, without the choke, pumping the gas. In first, in neutral, in reverse (as if that made a difference, but it sure felt like it might).

Red-faced, hair mussy, coat and scarf awry. Mama sits back, beaten, defeated. It didn't take much calculation to realise she had missed the bus, and the various neighbours who would usually offer a lift had already left for their morning coffee. Her mind wanders to the chores of the day and how she would amuse the children while she did them...Not acceptable! Try again!

Strokes the dashboard. "Come on girl, do it for me. I'll change your oil...I'll sort out the rust on your bodywork...I'll get your damned wheel bearings changed!" Okay now. Choke out half way. Gently does it.

Vrooooooommmmm! And we drive like Jeremy Clarkson all the way to town.

Much later, Mama is busy with B.'s bedtime non-routine when AJ bursts through the bathroom door, beaming. In his arms he carries an elaborately decorated blue box and the car keys, and he's followed by a sheepish culprit.

It's a chocolate-coated apology, and everybody gets some. And Mama sits back on her heels and reflects that every cloud has a silver lining, but that she would like it even better if every cloud had a chocolate lining...