Copyright © Louise Bostock 2007-2013. Please give credit where credit is due.

Saturday, 3 January 2009

Ristorante Graziella, Brissago

Minus one at 10am. Damp and cold and grey. Two years ago today the story of Jonathan, Carmine Superiore's favourite seagull, came to a sad end.

To a tiny gem of a restaurant on Brissago's waterfront, Ristorante Graziella, for lunch.

An interesting starter salad including an orange-based dressing, grape halves and pumpkin seeds made a change from the usual four-leaves-and-an-olive, and the fish was sumptuous, caught as it had been in the Lago di Lugano not long before it was on the plate. The alternative main course was a stroganoff that melted in the mouth and tasted somehow familiar, like home-cooking back home. Pudding choices included - did my eyes deceive me? - apple crumble served with homemade ice-cream that had both Mama and B-in-her-best-dress jumping up and down.

Swiss co-owner Bea Graenicher served with elegance, switching effortlessly from Italian to German to English while scoring ten out of ten for common sense when she produced a bib to protect B's best dress. The mystery of the apple crumble was solved with the news that the powerhouse in the kitchen was English cook and co-owner Barry Kingman.

One small criticism is that the decor is slightly lacking in character, slightly too clean-cut. Think about the eminently forgettable faces of the agents who flank the US president and you'll know what I mean. We could also have done with some music to make our conversation a little less public, and to partially camouflage the chidren's rising rambunctiousness towards the end of the meal.

However...

Our guest, himself a chef of some repute and many, many years experience, tells us that he has been a patron of Ristorante Graziella since it opened seven years ago and has never eaten badly here. And if you care about food more than you care about decor, that's quite a recommendation.

Ristorante Graziella
Lungolago, 6614 Brissago
Tel. 091 780 93 19 : 079 516 35 88
Open daily, closed Wednesday. Saturdays open from 6pm onwards.
Seats only 14, so reservations strongly recommended.

3 comments:

LadyFi said...

Apple crumble! Delicious... and quite easy to make at home too when feeling homesick...

Vanessa said...

Apple crumble - what is it about apple crumble that makes it so English?

Romancing Italy said...

Just wanted to wish you the best for the new year. Your blog is always interesting, always a very good read (with recommendations for other good reads) and I thoroughly enjoy it.

May the sun rise high and kiss your home every day....and kick that lil' ole mercury up a bit.

Saturday, 3 January 2009

Ristorante Graziella, Brissago

Minus one at 10am. Damp and cold and grey. Two years ago today the story of Jonathan, Carmine Superiore's favourite seagull, came to a sad end.

To a tiny gem of a restaurant on Brissago's waterfront, Ristorante Graziella, for lunch.

An interesting starter salad including an orange-based dressing, grape halves and pumpkin seeds made a change from the usual four-leaves-and-an-olive, and the fish was sumptuous, caught as it had been in the Lago di Lugano not long before it was on the plate. The alternative main course was a stroganoff that melted in the mouth and tasted somehow familiar, like home-cooking back home. Pudding choices included - did my eyes deceive me? - apple crumble served with homemade ice-cream that had both Mama and B-in-her-best-dress jumping up and down.

Swiss co-owner Bea Graenicher served with elegance, switching effortlessly from Italian to German to English while scoring ten out of ten for common sense when she produced a bib to protect B's best dress. The mystery of the apple crumble was solved with the news that the powerhouse in the kitchen was English cook and co-owner Barry Kingman.

One small criticism is that the decor is slightly lacking in character, slightly too clean-cut. Think about the eminently forgettable faces of the agents who flank the US president and you'll know what I mean. We could also have done with some music to make our conversation a little less public, and to partially camouflage the chidren's rising rambunctiousness towards the end of the meal.

However...

Our guest, himself a chef of some repute and many, many years experience, tells us that he has been a patron of Ristorante Graziella since it opened seven years ago and has never eaten badly here. And if you care about food more than you care about decor, that's quite a recommendation.

Ristorante Graziella
Lungolago, 6614 Brissago
Tel. 091 780 93 19 : 079 516 35 88
Open daily, closed Wednesday. Saturdays open from 6pm onwards.
Seats only 14, so reservations strongly recommended.

3 comments:

LadyFi said...

Apple crumble! Delicious... and quite easy to make at home too when feeling homesick...

Vanessa said...

Apple crumble - what is it about apple crumble that makes it so English?

Romancing Italy said...

Just wanted to wish you the best for the new year. Your blog is always interesting, always a very good read (with recommendations for other good reads) and I thoroughly enjoy it.

May the sun rise high and kiss your home every day....and kick that lil' ole mercury up a bit.